by Rachel O’Brien with Rusmir Smajilhodzic Agence France-Presse LESKOVAC, Serbia (AFP) – It’s a source of Balkan rivalry but one ubiquitous smell: the wood-fire roasting of peppers wafting through towns and villages each autumn as families prepare the region’s best-loved relish. Slathered on bread, nibbled with cheese or served alongside meat dishes, “ajvar” has for generations filled the shelves of winter pantries — and the rich spread’s production is a matter of no little pride. “We […]